Khadi, a traditional Indian fabric, has undergone a remarkable transformation from being a symbol of self-reliance during the Indian Independence movement to a global fashion staple. The fabric, which was once spun by hand under the guidance of Mahatma Gandhi, has weaved its way into the hearts of international designers, including the legendary Vivienne Westwood, who recently unveiled a collection featuring handlooms like Khadi, Chanderi, and hand-woven silks.
The resurgence of Khadi is not just cultural but also commercial, with sales of Khadi and Village Industries products skyrocketing from Rs 31,154.19 crore in 2013-14 to Rs 1,70,551.37 crore in 2024-25, a five-fold increase. The fabric’s evolution from a symbol of self-reliance to a booming sector riding high on sustainability and slow fashion is a testament to its timeless appeal.
Khadi’s relevance in India dates back to the Independence movement, when Mahatma Gandhi championed it as a means to promote self-reliance and resist British economic policies. The fabric became a quiet revolution, with every citizen playing a role in its production and promotion. However, post-Independence, Khadi’s identity evolved, and it was no longer seen as a call to action but a relic of memory.
In recent years, the fashion industry has brought about a resurgence of Khadi, with Indian designers like Abraham & Thakore championing its versatility and using it to create garments that are chic yet deeply rooted in Indian ethos. The brand Terra Luna is another example of a new generation of brands reimagining Khadi for a modern market.
Despite its resurgence, Khadi’s journey into mainstream fashion is not without hurdles. Its time-intensive production, high costs, coarse texture, and variability between batches pose constraints for designers aiming for large-scale, uniform collections. However, with Indian fashion houses and global giants like Vivienne Westwood throwing their weight behind Indian handlooms, Khadi’s heritage and legacy are only meant for greater heights.
The fabric’s biodegradable nature, support for rural livelihoods, and low-impact production process make it an attractive alternative to fast fashion. As the fashion industry reckons with its environmental footprint, Khadi’s sustainability and authenticity are becoming increasingly appealing to consumers. With its rich history, cultural significance, and modern relevance, Khadi is poised to become a staple in the global fashion industry, representing both luxury and responsibility. As Abraham & Thakore put it, “Khadi has always had a quiet power, it’s honest, handmade, and deeply rooted in our culture. What’s exciting is that people are now seeking that authenticity more than ever.”